Kaikoura – Koromiko – Wellington

We had woken to a stunner of a day and a quick check on weather forecasts, tides, swell forecasts and the Cook Strait weather map made us realise that tomorrow was going to be the only calm day forecast for the next week. A quick phone call to the ferry reservation office to check on availability was the plan, after a 35minute wait for the call to be answered we were able to get a place on the ferry the following day. Time to pack up and leave Kaikoura as well as our lovely neighbours Jim & Jenny. See you soon we hope!!

As we were leaving Kaikoura, we heard a very loud squeaking sort of a sound, a loud whooshing then scrunching noises, it stopped whenever we stopped, then started up again as we moved off. Took a minute or three to figure out that the volume control for the backing camera had been accidentally turned up…it was the squeaking of the towball the whoosh of other vehicles passing and the scrunching of gravel under the tyres!!! 🤣😂

We were soon on our way and as we turned every corner seemed to produce yet another photo opportunity, yes folks, I had the phone out to take photos along our drive today.

A glorious day to travel
From the ocean to the mountains
Across the Clarence River
Past vineyards outside Blenheim
Devastation in the recently flooded area north of Springs Creek

We soon arrived at our destination for the night, a park over property at Koromiko not too far out of Picton. As there had been a lot of rain over the previous few days we knew that the ground had the potential to be a bit soft and muddy. When we arrived we parked on the gravel road and got out to inspect the ground, picking, what we thought was the firmest ground to drive in.

Parked up at Koromiko, to avoid this mess we went the long way round

We avoided the heavily rutted and muddy area and took a big loop around the trees. Hmmm, it was a very muddy and slippery drive and we soon came to a grinding halt albeit with spinning rear wheels. Out we hopped to inspect what was going on and to unhitch the car. At this point the very helpful custodian came over to see if he could assist in any way, as he drives big-rig trucks for a living he knew what he was talking about. We got out the two rubber doormats that we have just for this situation, put them in front of the rear wheels to provide a bit of traction and with some gentle coaching Roy slowly drove the van out onto firm ground.

Ooops, we left our own tracks. Got stuck, but with the handy rubber mats under the back wheels we were soon out of the mud.
Just a few tyre tracks!

The custodians were ever so nice, we apologised profusely for making a a mess with tyre tracks but they said no worries, it’s winter, what do you expect? We had a very pleasant and quiet overnight stay before heading off in the late afternoon the following day ready to catch the ferry. Oh and if you are wondering, there wasn’t an issue getting out, it was a simple drive out.

Onto Picton and the ferry for an early evening sailing, however, it was running over an hour late due to a medical emergency on board earlier in the day so instead of arriving in wellington at 11pm it was 12.30am when we docked.

Waiting in the queue to board

It was a relatively smooth sailing, just a big swell in the middle of the Strait made us rock’n’roll a bit.

The city lights of Wellington, always a welcome sight.
Parked inside the ship, they gave us a bit of room on the drivers side so we could exit the door easily.
The view through the front windscreen. I don’t know how these truck driver manage to get their big rigs in and out of these tight spaces.
Truck and trailer unit with a bend in the middle, he had to do a bit of to-ing and fro-ing to get out.

Then it was our turn to exit once the trucks had managed to get out of the way, the guys guiding us were brilliant and only required us to back up a little to get around the final tight corner, not an easy thing to do with a car on an A-Frame. We were soon off and by 1.30am we had arrived at the Plimmerton NZMCA park. We were very careful to be as quiet as possible so we parked out on the road, unhitched the car and then walked into the park to see where we were able to fit in. It was pretty full but we found a good spot next to the entrance, parked up, set ourselves up before making a cup of tea and finally climbing into bed just after 2am.

We woke the following morning to find that the wind had come up, forecasts were for gale force winds later in the day and the following day which would have meant a very rough crossing. Phew, we made the right decision.

Plans were made for the next few days to catch up with friends and family but there was one job on the urgent list that had to be attended to very quickly. The cable that connects the lights from the van to the car had at some stage become trapped in the A-frame mechanism resulting in a squashed cable and meant we had a fault with the lights. We didn’t know this until we had come off the ferry, travelling along the motorway with one indicator light stuck on which would occasionally turn off again as we went over a bump. As there was nowhere to safely stop along the motorway at silly hour of the night and very little traffic we continued our short journey to Plimmerton.

The next morning we looked at repairing the cable but no, it would be better and safer to get a new one made up. We headed off to Berry & Mexted Batteries to get a new cable sorted, which they did quickly and efficiently. Now we can plan the next few days.

Christchurch-Parnassus-Kaikoura

The road from Christchurch to Parnassus is not a great distance, about 145km, and very scenic with lots of wineries along the way however, we were happy to drive on past the wineries onto our destination.

Crossing the Hurunui River

Parnassus is one of the quieter parks in the NZMCA network, and when we arrived at the park just one other vehicle was there but by the evening 6 others had joined us. They all left the following morning so our next night there was spent on our own, not that we mind.

Parked in the sunshine in Parnassus

We had planned on staying just two nights but the weather was rubbish on Tuesday so without any pressing reason to leave, we stayed off the roads. In fact there were warnings out to stay off the roads as there were predicted high winds, snow to fall in the hills and generally a good day to stay indoors knitting whilst watching the olympics.

From here it was an even shorter drive of just 68km to Kaikoura. For some reason I woke early, well, early for me 😉, and with a glorious day unfolding we were on our way before 10am. What a stunning day to travel with lots of scenery to take in along the way.

Just out of Parnassus we caught a glimpse of the Inland Kaikoura Range covered in snow
Aaaah, back by the sea
Through the tunnel
At the top of the rope, you can just make out the orange jacket of abseilers working on road safety measures after the earthquake.
The overhead nets have been completed since we were through here in late March.
The Seaward Kaikoura Range towering above the sea.

We arrived at the Kaikoura NZMCA a park in time for lunch and settled in where we picked to be a good place. All of the grass areas are roped off at the moment but fortunately there are two levels of gravelled parking areas to choose from.

View from the door of the van
And from the front window.

Whilst we were in Kaikoura we popped in to see Trevor & Susan, they have moved into their new house since we were here in April. We ended up have having dinner with them in their stunning new home overlooking South Bay. And of course I did my usual thing of forgetting to take a single photo. We had a lovely time with them over a very nice meal Susan made for us all and we look forward to seeing them again and see what they have done with their gardens.

You will have worked out by now that we only move on fine days, we choose not to travel in high winds, torrential rain or at night. We realise that we are fortunate not to have a schedule to keep to and can change plans to suit ourselves.

With that in mind, Saturday morning dawned bright and clear, the weather forecast for the next few days were dire with wind warnings and snow forecast so we packed up ready to leave. We got as far as the dump station at the Kaikoura NZMCA park (all of 100metres from where we were parked) when the wind started to blow, and blow, and blow. After emptying the tanks and with the van being rocked by the wind we looked at each other and said, nah, let’s go back and park up here until the bad weather passes. So we did exactly that.

The rain came down in torrents, and it got colder and colder, by late afternoon it was only just above zero.

A bit of water lying around
Icy snow building up on the windows.

Luckily the storm only lasted a couple of days before the sun came out again. This is the view out of the van door over a couple of days.

Top picture when the clouds descended, and the following morning in the picture below.

An interesting thing happened whilst we were in Kaikoura. Roy lost the little pouch that he keeps his hearing aid batteries in along with a couple of other things for his hearing aids. We searched and searched throughout the van and then the car and the ground in between but could not find it anywhere. A couple of days later we went to the supermarket where we were met at the entrance by the manager with a photo of Roy taken at the supermarket and with the hearing aid pouch in his hand asking if this was Roy’s? “Yes”, he said, “but how did you know it was mine? “. Well, they found it on the floor by the checkout, looked back through CCTV footage, found it was Roy who dropped it and printed off his picture. Then on camera they followed him to the car, got the reg of the car and when the car came into the car parking lot two days later, the camera picked up the reg and sent a text alert to the manager who met us at the entrance to the supermarket!! How amazing is that? Scary, that big brother is watching everything we do, but great that he got his pouch returned. And yes, he has now put his name and phone number inside it, just in case.

Kaikoura to Parnassus

Not a very long drive today, just 52minutes so Mr Google tells me but then Mr Google forgot to tell us about the holdups for major road works along the way and nor did he account for the hills to go up and down and the twisty roads to go around nor the fact that we regularly pull over to let any traffic behind us pass.

Before leaving Kaikoura there was the usual chores to attend to like disposing of the rubbish, emptying the waste tanks at the on-site dump station and filling up the water tanks however we were soon on our way heading south out of town.

Overlooking South Bay heading out of Kaikoura

The road continues to hug the coastline and is very picturesque. There are plenty of pull off areas which people were utilising to view the numerous seals that live all along the rocky coastline. We saw plenty of seals basking in the sunshine on the rocks and even more frolicking in rock pools, oh and we could also smell them!

The road hugs the coastline

We hadn’t travelled too far when we were brought to a halt. It seems there are major roadworks underway, Rockfall protection we are told. The truck driver in front of us got out of his cab and did a walk around his truck and trailer checking tyres and other things so we figured we would be sitting here for a while. However we couldn’t really complain with this view.

Looking back to Kaikoura from our temporary stop. Not a bad view!

Once we did get underway again we could see what amazing work these guys were doing.

The cause of the holdup, building overhead rockfall nets.
Impressive abseiling workers

We continued south with a few tunnels to go through. one way each tunnel and one for trains.

Tunnels up ahead, one for each direction of traffic and one for the train

And a tunnel right on a corner, taking it slowly.

Tunnel

We were soon climbing slowly away from the coastline through the Hunderlees Hills before reaching Parnassus where we shall be staying for the night.

Parked at Parnassus

This is another NZMCA park, it’s an old school grounds, with beautiful large oak trees in the grounds and plenty of place to park. And that 52minute drive? Well, it took us 1hour and 45minutes. Just as well we are not in any hurry to get anywhere!

The route today

Kaikoura and a hiccup

The weather has decided to turn cold, wet and windy, something we are not used to as yet and we both had to dig through the wardrobes to find trousers and jumpers which have been well hidden away.

We parked at the new NZMCA Park on the north side of Kaikoura and quickly settled ourselves in. We decided to stay here over Easter as the forecast wasn’t looking particularly great and it seemed prudent to stay put. We can explore around the area basing ourselves here.

The view from the van, note the fresh snow on the Seaward Kaikoura’s.

We settled in for the next few days. Then came the hiccup. Overnight we noticed a problem with our power or to be precise our batteries. Oh no, does this mean we need new house batteries? Let’s see what happens in the morning. Bugger, looks like one set of our battery bank has died. Many messages were then sent to and fro to Wayne from Motorhome Solar, trying to diagnose the problem. Readings off the monitor were taken, photos taken, batteries checked with the multimeter, charts drawn up, emails and messages were pinging back and forth. The same thing happened the following night with one set of battery voltages dropping to the dead zone according to the monitor. Ok, we told ourselves we have done well to get 10years of continuous use out of our batteries thus resigned ourselves having to replace them all.

Roy took the monitor off the wall as it had become difficult to press the buttons to get any readings, he tightened up a few loose screws and mounted the monitor back on the wall. Well, what do you know? Ever since then, we are back at full capacity, batteries not dropping voltage overnight, and all testing has come back A OK. We cannot figure out what on earth is going on but we figure that there must have been a loose connection at the back of the monitor which was short circuiting somewhere and causing the problem of false readings on the battery voltages as the amp readings were ok. Fingers crossed, we may yet get a few more years out of these batteries!!!

Good Friday arrived, cold, wet and miserable so a day spent indoors was planned. However, I got a message from Auckland friends Anne & Greg to say they were also in Kaikoura and would we like to meet up? We were there in less than 5minutes! Anne’s brother Trevor and his partner Sue were also to join us as they are now living in Kaikoura and are building a house.

L-R: Trevor, Anne, Bernice, Greg, Roy and Sue

We had a lovely couple of hours with them before we bade farewell with Roy & I arranging to meet up with Trevor & Sue later over the weekend.

Meanwhile, we did a few little tiki tours around the area.

Mountains to the sea
Looking south toward Kaikoura township
Wave form seating in Kaikoura

We experience some stunning sunsets with the colours changing from yellows to oranges to deep reds.

We also experience every season imaginable, over 4 days we had heavy rain, strong winds, fresh snow on the hills which saw us reaching to get out the warm clothing and bedding followed by a scorching hot 31C day! The trousers and jumpers were put away and the shorts and t shirts came out again.

We visited Trevor & Sue and their house build up on the heights overlooking South Bay, what a stunning location and view. Their house is going to be lovely when it’s finished which shouldn’t be too much longer, then comes all the hard work of landscaping and putting the finishing touches in place. I was so entranced by their views and chatting that I forgot to take any pictures at all.

It’s time to move on from Kaikoura, it’s a lovely town which seems to have quickly recovered from the earthquakes. Although we have been here a few times, this is the first time we’ve spent more than a day or two here and we were quite impressed with what we saw. The town very busy, very tidy and vibrant with lots going on and lots of friendly locals. Oh, and yes, we did sample some local seafood though not what the town is named for (Kai= food, Koura=crayfish) but fresh blue cod, it’s been a while since we had blue cod and delicious it was too.

It’s also been a while since I gave a Callum update, here he is enjoying a little light reading! The Qi book of General Ignorance no less.

Callum getting in a bit of light reading!
And doing what he loves, reading, baking and playing outside.
This is Callum and how he talks to a grandma and Grandad! I’m sure he thinks we live in the TV 😂

Moving on to Kaikoura

Did I say that we were only driving short distances now we were in the south? That’ll teach me to speak too soon!

We left the lovely parking spot at Koromiko and headed just a short distance down the main highway to empty the waste tanks and to fill with fuel as we’ve discovered that many NPD fuels are also providing dump stations at their fuel stations, which is very handy.

Once the chores are completed, it was on to our next destination Marfells Beach, a DOC camp along the seafront near Lake Grassmere. The drive through Blenheim was beautiful with the lush green vines contrasting with the extremely dry hills.

Vines along the roadside

Vines along the roadside contrasting with the very dry hills

This now disused bridge was a combination road rail bridge, with the rail on the top level and road beneath. The new bridge is road only and two lanes.

First glimpse of the sea.

We turn off State Highway 1, past Lake Grassmere (not to be confused with Lake Grasmere, different spelling, different location). This lake is used to produce salt.

According to Wikipedia Lake Grassmere ;

Covering an area of 17 square kilometres (6.6 sq mi), it has no natural inflow and is prone to strong warm winds. Close to the sea, it also has a very high salinity.

Because of these geographical characteristics, it is ideal for natural salt extraction. Grassmere has been divided into solar evaporation ponds. Seawater is pumped in, and moved between ponds over several months, increasing in salinity with each successive evaporation period. As salinity increases, crystallised salt forms and is extracted.

The pink hues of salt drying in the sun as we pass Lake Grassmere

Arriving at the DOC camp, we quickly decided that we would continue on our travels. The camp is looking rather scruffy and uninviting, it’s changed quite a bit since we were last here therefore plan B was put into effect and we continued our journey southwards.

A glimpse of the sea as we pass though some of the roadworks along this route. We have to say that the work done on the roads after the Kaikoura earthquakes in 2016 are outstanding.

The road hugs the coastline, this road was basically destroyed after the earthquake

The newly completed road is a feat of engineering as well as testament to the hard work by all involved to get it all done, and done so well.

Top; before (taken in 2012), and below; now

You will see in the above current photo that there is also a wide pathway which completes the new roadworks. There is currently 3km of pathway of a planned 22km. However, local iwi halted the construction of any more of the planned cycleway/pathway due to concerns. Let’s hope they resolve the issues soon.

There are plenty of beautifully landscaped areas to stop and admire the views, or walk to see seals basking in the sun or playing in rock pools, or to just have a break. Including a couple of parking areas near cafes and the famous Crayfish shops.

Nins Bin – Famous crayfish (rock lobster) caravan on the roadside north of Kaikoura

We plan to stay here in Kaikoura for a while and do some day trips from here before moving on.

Today’s journey

The next move will definitely not cover quite so many kms.

The trip to date