Robin Hood Bay, Staithes & Whitby – part 3/4

Thursday September 8th We left Scarborough and chasing relatives addresses behind for some sightseeing and headed northwards to Robin Hood Bay. This picturesque old fishing village is on the Heritage coast of the North Yorkshire Moors. It was a glorious drive over the North Moors, with flowering heather blanketing the moors.

North Yorkshire Moors Heritage Park

The Bay has a fascinating history that you can read about here. There is no visitor traffic allowed down into the village via the very steep and narrow road so it was a walk down the vertiginous hill. The vertigo suffering member of the touring party aka Roy, didn’t venture too far down, he waited for us to explore. We didn’t venture all the way down…going down is fine, it’s the coming back up that would be problem!!!….but we did venture part way down and out to a lookout via some very narrow cobbled paths.

The road down to the beach front
View out across the bay
And to prove we were there

After a wander around, taking in the views and reading the information boards brushing up on our historical knowledge, it was back to the car and on to Staithes. This is another wonderful fishing village on the coast, this time we managed to drive down to the village and find a park, it was after 5pm by now.

Walking down to the harbour
The name says it all
Roy and Martin enjoying the scenery
Fishing boats in the harbour
Scenes around Staithes
A traditional fishing boat called a coble, a vessel with a high bow and a flat bottom which enabled the fishermen to easily land and launch from shallow, sandy beaches. They had a rudder which could be ‘unshipped’ easily before landing.

There is another tradition from this area that I was hoping to glean some knowledge and information about and that is the traditional knitted fisherman’s jumper called a Gansy or Guernsey. These sweaters were knitted by the wives and mothers of fishermen with individual patterns of various stitches pertaining to villages, families, and individuals. So what makes a Gansey? The Gansey is a unique type of jumper traditionally worn by fishermen. They are knitted with 5 ply worsted wool in one piece with no seams. Five small double ended needles or wires are used to knit in the round creating a really tight knit (or close knit) which creates a wind and somewhat waterproof protection against the elements. The intricate patterns often concentrate towards the upper part of the garment around the shoulders, arms and chest and are often made reversible so they can be worn either way around prolonging the wear of the Gansey before it needs repair. On a darker note, the jerseys individual patterns were also used to identify a fisherman’s body if they happened fall overboard and succumb to the elements.

I do recall Dad wearing what he called a Gansey especially when he went fishing, I didn’t find any Ganseys in our travels (not that I was looking too hard!) but it was good to see the environment and fishing vessels in which they were worn. Now, back to our travels.

Dog Loup cut through/alley (snicket or ginnel) is apparently the narrowest in the uk at just 18inches or 45cm wide.
Captain Cooks cottage. Captain Cook worked here as a young man.
This door made me feel quite tall!

By the time we had finished our wander around the village and the waterfront the sun was setting and the evening drawing in so it was back to the car for the short drive back down the coast to Whitby where we were going to have fish and chips for dinner.

Whitby harbour

We couldn’t get reservations at our first choice of restaurant but this restaurant came highly recommended. We had just sat down and ordered our meal when the news about the death of Queen Elizabeth II broke. We all sat quietly for a while letting the news sink in, we drank a toast to her before continuing with our meal.

Fish & chip dinner, and yes it was very good fresh fish.

After dinner, it was back into the car for the drive back to Scarborough where, at the B&B, we showed Sue & Martin a couple of movies we had on the computer. These were home movies that Dad had taken in 1963 in his cine camera and I had recently had the movies converted to digital format (thank you David & Marilyn). We all laughed loudly when watching the movie it came to Sherwood Street showing the same street signage I had taken a photo of the previous day and the same business in the same premises on the street. In fact the street looked very much the same.

A very big day of memory making, and we will definitely remember where we were when the news broke of Her Majesty’s death. May she Rest In Peace after a lifetime of dedicated service.

A Yorkshire Odyssey (2/4)

8th September Today was destined to be an epic day in more way than one. Hence this day is split into two parts, the morning and the next one will be the afternoon version. We achieved a lot in one day!

After breakfast at the B&B we set off for our tour around Scarborough chasing addresses where my great grandparents, grandparents and great aunts and uncles lived. This is the Coatham side of the family tree that we are following, my maiden name. We had planned our route the previous evening so we knew where we were heading and hopefully in a logical geographical order.

Longwestgate Street: The newer build at the front left was where Great grandad John & great grandma Elizabeth lived with 9 of their children (there was a further 5 children). The coloured terrace houses in the background would have been the style of house that was there.

From here we visited another property where John lived before he married Elizabeth.

St Martin’s Place: John lived here as a lodger. As an aside, we noticed a number of properties around here that had windows bricked up, we presume due to window tax although I feel this tax was imposed much earlier than these houses would have been built.
Hoxton Road: This small terrace property is where Great grandfather John and family shoehorned themselves into. John & Elizabeth and 5 children lived here.
The street view of Hoxton Road.
Westbourne Grove: this is the house where my great grandmother Elizabeth lived and worked in service before she married.
This street name is etched into my brain, as it was where grandpop Ernest and three of his sisters lived before we left England and was where I remember addressing many letters to.
16 Sherwood Street.

We had a good reminisce whilst looking at the street and wandering up and down. We talked to some of the residents and got a good feel of the area. Whilst we were standing in the street chatting away, we happened to glance through this snicket/ginnel (Yorkshire speak for a pass through or walkway between houses) and saw what we thought was a windmill. Shall we walk up the road and see what it’s all about? Sure, why not.

Peek through the snicket, and the Windmill – now a B&B

We ended up going in for a look at the windmill and were warmly welcomed in by the very friendly Irish owner and given a look around. What an amazing place and what a great job they are doing here. We shall definitely be staying here next time we visit Scarborough.

From here it was to visit the Rest Home where Great Uncle George, and two Great Aunties lived toward the end of their lives. It is no longer a Rest Home but a home for single men with mental health issues. Again, we were warmly met by staff and they spent quite a bit of time talking to us and explaining what they had done with the premises and the work they currently do.

Marina Lodge was Ravensmere Rest Home

We did visit another couple of addresses we had on our list but we are still checking that they are indeed the correct addresses for the right people in the right place at the right time. Our house hunting was over for the day so now time for some sightseeing.

From here it was along to the main south beachfront for a rest stop and to see the views.

Scarborough South Beach

It was time for me to complete my promise of having a Knickerbocker Glory at the Harbour Bar. This has been in operation since 1945, they make their own icecream as well as an array of sundaes and other delights.

Harbour Bar in Scarborough. Mission completed!

And yes, the Icecream delight was delicious and shared between three of us.

Scarborough street scenes

We also spent some time trying to find Yorkshire flags for a certain person, this mission looks like it may be a little more difficult than we had anticipated although Sue did find some Pontefract cakes for the said same person – you owe us BIG time John! Many thanx to Martin, the ever patient driver who stopped at every shop that looked as though it was a possible flag selling shop, we will have some luck eventually I am sure.

The afternoons tripping around will be the subject of next blog entry, it was an amazing afternoon so stay tuned.

A Yorkshire Odyssey (Part one of four)

Wednesday 7th September: Alex dropped us off at the train station at Abbey Wood just after 9am on Wednesday 7th September where we were to catch the train. First we had to get to Euston Station which required to first catch the train to Tottenham Court Road, then a tube to Euston. All this takes a little time, 25 minutes on the Elizabeth line train, then a walk to the underground to find the right platform and go down numerous steps, then a 5 minute tube ride and another short walk to Euston National Train Station, time to grab a bite to eat and drink for the train ride.

Departure Board, along with others waiting to see which platform we have to race to

We got on the train heading to Birmingham where we settled into our seats to enjoy the 2hr journey north.

Settled in our seats….trying to work on my selfie skills!

At Birmingham we were met by Susan & Martin, Susan is my cousin on my Dads side of the family, my grandpop Ernest Coatham was her Great Uncle. We have stayed with Sue & Martin on previous visits to the UK and they have also been to NZ, but this time we were off an adventure/odyssey seeking out where Ernest had lived over the years as well as his parents and grandparents.

Roy, along with others, has done on awful lot of work over the years into researching our genealogical lines so we have a lot of information gleaned from census records, birth death & marriage certificates and electoral rolls as well as family records.

After being warmly welcomed we set off with Sue & Martin on our road trip with todays destination being Scarborough. The conversation flowed, the scenery passed us by and before we knew it, we were at our first destination for a cuppa.

Todays drive is about 3 1/2 hrs but with stops it will be a lot longer. It’s all about the journey, not about getting there asap!!
The welcome to Doncaster sign, seen as we drove through. Grandpop lived in Doncaster after he retired but where he lived is now all new housing.

We arrived in the pretty village of Pocklington and quickly found a lovely little cafe for a coffee.

Bernice, Roy, Sue and Martin. Hmmm….selfie skills need more work!
Sue took this photo of me at afternoon tea, a much better selfie!

The café was where we sampled delicious local fare, friendly service, and helpful staff. Afterwards a wander around the streets was in order to unnumb bums! We came across a few lovely shops and was quite enamoured with the village. They even had an Arkwright’s store.

Arkwrights store
Local butcher shop display window

There was also a great bakery where Sue bought us a Yorkshire Curd Tart to try later. It’s all about the Yorkshire you know! We had already checked out a few shops to try and find a Yorkshire flag as I had been sent on a mission by my brother John to purchase one for him. This was the start of another odyssey within an odyssey that would unfold over the coming days. More of that later.

Shops in the Main Street, Pocklington

After a wander around the village it was back into the car for the short drive to North Dalton where we were hoping to find the house where my great grandfather John Coatham lived. It was really weird, I had a great sense of coming home, I felt very comfortable, it was quite strange and very difficult to describe the feeling that I had apart from a sense of calm and comfortably at ease in this region of Yorkshire.

We pulled into a car park at the local pub where we got chatting to a couple of very friendly locals after enquiring on directions. Now this village only has a population of around 300 so it’s not very big, we only had to walk a few hundred metres before we found the street and property we were looking for. However, the original house was now replaced by a more recent build, probably post war we thought, but on looking around we found evidence of older properties to give us an idea of what it would have been like.

The newer build that was where my great grandad John had lived
The views over the fields from the property
An older cottage with evidence of many repairs and rebuilds in the stone work over the years

It was getting late in the day by now, so it was back into the car for the drive to Scarborough and our accommodation for the next couple of nights. Once settled into our rooms, we met up to walk into town to an Indian restaurant that had come highly recommended.

We walked past the old Jail on our way into town. A very impressive building.
Martin & Roy enjoying some of the many dishes on offer.

After dinner, it was a saunter back to our accommodation to organise our plan of action for tomorrow, it’s going to be a big day.